Charlotte Werth
Unleashing the Creative Potential of Microbial Dyes in Textiles
Close up of a textile sample printed with Janthinobacterium lividum, Charlotte Werth 2023. Photo credit: Paul Cochrane
Bacteria in design defy conventional boundaries, forging an inspiring intersection between biology and creativity. These remarkable microscopic organisms, known for their adaptability and versatility, are pivotal in material production and waste management, driving environmental sustainability forward.
In the realm of textile and fashion design, bacteria offer immense potential to generate natural, non-toxic dyes and fabricate materials through biofabrication, presenting eco-friendly alternatives to conventional and environmentally harmful processes. Moreover, the unique growth patterns exhibited by bacteria infuse designs with a distinctive aesthetic dimension.
Integrating bacteria into design triggers a paradigm shift, fostering a symbiotic relationship with nature and challenging the human-centric approach. Despite its challenges, this discipline opens up new avenues for innovation, discovery, and a more sustainable future.
Leading the way at the captivating crossroads of textile and biodesign is Charlotte Werth, a visionary material designer who has been researching bacteria dye since 2017. With a focus on cultivating pigment-producing bacteria directly on textiles, she guides these microorganisms to co-create intricate patterns.
Charlotte's contribution to bacteria dyeing brings numerous environmentally friendly advantages that set it apart from traditional synthetic dyeing methods. By significantly reducing water usage and eliminating harmful chemicals, bacteria dyeing offers a compelling alternative to the detrimental status quo. The technique yields visually stunning results, featuring mesmerizing colour gradients and lines that are challenging to replicate. However, the growth process of bacteria introduces an element of unpredictability, transforming them into active participants in the design process. Embracing living organisms as integral collaborators unlocks new possibilities for intentional yet unpredictable outcomes. Co-designing and co-producing with microorganisms requires a deep understanding of their growth patterns, and Charlotte's work aims to explore the feasibility of scaling up this predictably unpredictable practice.
Automating Violacein collection by Charlotte Werth 2023 - photography Paul Cochrane for Maison 0
The field of biology harbours extraordinary solutions to the environmental challenges faced by the textile industry. Over the past decade, significant progress has been made in developing microbial dyes, now commercially produced. Charlotte's work contributes to this evolution, utilizing bacteria to biofabricate vibrant pigments through fermentation processes in bioreactors or by directly cultivating bacteria on fabric, resulting in captivating patterns.
Sterilization is critical in eliminating live organisms from the final coloured pigments. In 2019, Charlotte established her microbiology lab, merging biology and fashion, earning her the prestigious Cologne Design Prize. Her ambitious project, "Moving Pigment," garnered the Maison/0 Green Trail Award, aiming to scale and automate the process of co-creating textile patterns with pigment-producing bacteria.
Charlotte's work with bacteria embraces the unpredictability of the microbial world, treating these tiny organisms as invaluable collaborators. By recognizing living organisms as co-creators, she welcomes outcomes that, while partially foreseen, retain an element of surprise. Co-designing and co-producing with microorganisms necessitates a deep understanding of their growth patterns, enabling her to guide the pattern-creation process. Her work explores the feasibility of replicating this predictably unpredictable practice on a larger scale.
Through her innovative work with bacteria, Charlotte pushes the boundaries of textile design, redefining the traditional distinction between humans and non-human species. Her remarkable journey takes place against the backdrop of the environmental challenges faced by the textile industry, showcasing the immense potential of biological solutions. The development of microbial dyes over the past decade has demonstrated significant environmental advantages, including biodegradability, substantial water savings, and the ability to work across different fibre types without toxic mordanting.
The 'Automating Violacein' collection, born during her residency at Maison/0, exemplifies the harmonious convergence of technology and creativity for sustainability.
In her journey of exploration and creativity, Charlotte continues to inspire and educate while paving the way for more sustainable practices in textile design. Her work with bacterial dyes represents a technical breakthrough and a new canvas for creativity. It emphasizes the limitless possibilities of collaborating with nature instead of working against it.
Bacterial Dye Machine- Automating Violacein- Charlotte Werth 2023 - photography Paul Cochrane for Maison 0
“As a designer, I am driven to learn from and with nature. My first step is to observe the natural world and gain new knowledge to inform my creative practice. This is how I discovered Janthinobacterium lividum, a wild soil-dwelling bacterium which naturally expresses colour. This biomimicry approach enables me to adopt new bio-based colouring processes for textiles. ”
Colour test in Grow Lab - Automating Violacein- Charlotte Werth 2023 - photography Paul Cochrane for Maison 0
Close up of bacteria Janthinobacterium lividum, photography Paul Cochrane for Maison 0.
Bacterial Dye Machine- Automating Violacein- Charlotte Werth 2023 - photography Paul Cochrane for Maison 0
Bacterial print detail- stripe -Automating Violacein- Charlotte Werth 2023 - photography Paul Cochrane for Maison 0